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Thailand Guidebook > Provinces > Northern Thailand > Sukhothai

SUKHOTHAI PROVINCE

Sukhothai which literally means "Dawn of Happiness" with an area of 6,596 square kilometres, is about 427 kilometres north of Bangkok, and was founded in 1238. Sukhothai was the capital of Thailand for approximately 120 years.

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Administratively, Sukhothai is divided into the following districts: Muang Sukhothai, Sawan Khalok, Ban Dan Lan Hoi, Si Samrong, Thung Sariam, Kong Krailat, Khiri Mat, Si Satchanalai and Si Nakhon.

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Muang District

Phra Mae Ya Shirne is situated in front of the City Hall and is highly respected by Sukhothai residents. It houses an idol of Phra Mae Ya, a stone figure with a white face and long hair, and dressed as an ancient queen. The idol is about 1 metre high and is supposed to have been built during King Ramkhamhaeng's reign as a dedication to his late mother Nang Suang.

Thai Sukhothai Historical Park is located 12 kilometres from town on the Sukhothai-Tak Highway. It is open daily 8.30 a.m. - 4.30 p.m. Ruins of the royal palaces, Buddhist temples, the city gates, walls, moats, dams, ditches, ponds, canals, and the water dyke control system, which was the magical and spiritual centre of the Kingdom, are now preserved and have been restored by the Fine Arts Department with the cooperation of UNESCO, not only with a view of fostering Thailand's national identity but of safeguarding a fine example of mankind's cultural heritage.

The Ramkhamhaeng National Museum inside the park, displays gifts from the ex-abbot of Wat Ratchathani and art objects unearthed in Sukhothai and nearby provinces. It is open daily from 9.00 a.m. - 4.00 p.m. Admission fee 30 baht. Tel. (055) 612167

The north and the south walls of the ancient city are each 2,000 metres long, where as the east and the west walls are each 1,600 metres long. The walls contain four main gates. A stone inscription mentions that King Ramkhamhaeng set up a bell at one of the gates. If his subject needed help, they would ring the bell and the King would come out to settle disputes and dispense justice.

Interesting Monuments Inside the City Wall

Noen Prasat is where traces of the royal palace are found. It lies in the centre of the town and is surrounded by a moat.

Wat Mahathat

A sanctuary lying to the west behind the Royal Palace compound is Wat Mahathat. It is Sukhothai's largest temple with a customary main Chedi in lotus-bud shape and a ruined Wihan. Its main Buddha image (8 metres high) was installed inside a separate building. On the South stands a pedestal of a large Chedi built up in steps, the lowest platform is adorned with beautiful stucco figures of demons, elephants and lions with angles riding on their backs. Mural painting adorn this Chedi.

Situated among magnificent scenery southwest of Wat Mahathat is Wat Si-Sawai. Three Prangs (pagodas) of Lop Buri or Hindu-style and two Wihans are surrounded by a laterite wall. The ruin was once a Hindu shrine, but was later converted into a Buddhist monastery.

Situated to the west of Wat Mahathat is Wat Traphang-Ngoen with its square pedestal, main sanctuary, and stucco standing Buddha image in four niches. There is a Wihan in front, and in the east of the pond, there is an island with an Ubosot. This edifice has already crumbled and only its pedestal and laterite columns still remain.

Situated to the north of Wat Mahathat is Wat Chana - Songkhram lts main sanctuary is a round Singhalese-style Chedi.

Situated near Wat Chana-Songkhram is Wat Sa-Si. Around a Singhalese-style Chedi is the main sanctuary on an island in the middle of Traphang Trakuan Pond. A large Wihan contains a stucco Buddha image. To the south stands nine Chedis of different sizes.

Situated to the north of Wat Mahathat is the King Ramkhamhaeng Monument. The bronze statue of King Ramkhamhaeng sits on a throne with a base relief recording his life.

King Ramkhamhaeng made Sukhothai a powerful and extensive kingdom which included many parts of what are today neighbouring countries. He opened direct political relations with China and made two trips to China - the first in 1282 to visit Emperor Kublai Khan and the second in 1300 after Kublai Khan's death. From the second visit, he brought back Chinese artisans who taught the Thais the art of pottery. Today, the old "Sang khalok Potteries" are eagerly sought by collectors.

A major achievement of King Ramkhamhaeng was the revision of various forms of Khmer alphabets into a system suitable for the writing of Thai words. The alphabet that he invented in 1282 was essentially the same as that in use today.

Situated to the north of Wat Mahathat is Wat Mai. The temple, having a brick Wihan as the main sanctuary, is in Ayutthaya style. The columns of the Wihan are made of laterite.

Situated to the east of Wat Mahathat is Wat Traphang-Thong. The monastery is located on an island in the middle of a large pond. A ruined laterite Singhalese-style Chedi is on the island. In front of it, a new Mondop Contains the Lord Buddha's Footprint Slab that was created by King Lithai in 1390.

Interesting Monuments Outside the City Wall

Wat Phra-Phai-Luang formerly a Khmer-Hindu shrine but later converted into a Buddhist monastery, is surrounded by a moat. It is second in importance to Wat Mahathat. Inside, there are three Prangs like Wat Si-Sawi, but the southern and the central ones have crumbled leaving only the northern one decorated with stucco figures. In front of these Prangs are a Wihan and a crumbled Chedi; the later has a pedestal decorated with stucco seated Buddha images. A Mondop contains ruined Buddha image in four postures; sitting, reclining, standing, and walking.

Thuriang Kiln is a site where Sukhothai celadons were made. Kilns exist in an area measuring 100 by 700 metres. Each kiln is divided into three sections, the fire area, the pottery baking oven, and the flue. The pottery found here is usually decorated by three different painted designs on their bottom: a disc, a fish, and a flower. Forty-nine kilns and small edifices are visible. To the north, a pond has been dug into the stone.

Wat Si-Chum contains a monumental stucco-over-brick Buddha image in the attitude of Subduing Mara called ''Phra Achana'' .This Buddha measures 11.30 metres from knee to knee. The mondop is 32 metres square and 15 metres high, and the walls are 3 metres thick. There is a passageway in the left inner wall itself which leads to the above crossbeam. On the ceiling of the passageway are more than fifty engraved slate slabs illustrating Jataka scenes.

Wat Chang-Rop is situated in the Aranyik area. A Chedi is decorated with an elephant emerging from the base. A Wihan base and laterite columns are in front of the Chedi.

Wat Chetuphon enshrines four Buddha images in different postures: sitting, standing, walking, and reclining. The outer walls of the Mondop still retains a section in the form of a slate pillar-balustraded windows. There is an entrance to the Mondop to the north. Just behind the Mondop is a small sanctuary which contains a Buddha image known locally as Phra Si Ariya, the Lord Buddha of the Future.

Wat Chang Lom is located to the north of Chotwithithong Road with a bell-shaped Chedi of Ceylonese influence standing as the centre. The Chedi is situated on a 3-tiered square base with a platform decorated with a row of elephants seen by their front halves supporting the round Chedi. This type of elephant-decorated Chedi is to be seen in many ancient towns of the Sukhothai period; for example, Kamphaeng Phet and Si Satchanalai.

Wat Traphang-Thong-Lang houses a square Mondop which is beautifully decorated by stucco figures in niches. The southern side portrays the Lord Buddha flanked by angels. To the west portrays the Lord Buddha preaching to his father and relatives. The northern side depicts the episode when the Lord Buddha returned to preach to his wife. These stucco figures, especially those on the south side, are masterpieces of Sukhothai art.

Wat Chedi-Sung is situated near Wat Traphang Thong Lang. The upper part of the Chedi is round. The base is constructed in three tiered stages. This interesting Sukhothai type of Chedi is of Sivijaya and Singhalese-styles. In front of the Chedi stands a small Wihan.

The Ramkhamhaeng National Park (Khao Luang, Sukhothai) This exquisite national park with a combined natural and historical background covers an area of 314 square kilometers, and was declared to be a national park on 27 October, 1980.

High hills and steep cliffs some over 1,200 meters above sea level, together with fascinating falls, different species to plants and wildlife are some of the major attractions available in this park offered to nature loving tourists or visitors. Furthermore, the archaeological and historical sites with ancient remains and relics make the park even more attractive, especially for critics and theologians.

To reach the park by road, take Highway no. 1 from Bangkok, then at km. 414 (20 kilometres to Sukhothai) take the lest turn along the laterite road for another 16 kilometres till arriving at the park's office.

Sawankhalok District

Sawankhaworanayok National Museum is 38 kilometres from Sukhothai and 2 kilometres further on a road on the left. The museum features sculptural art from various periods; the most interesting being Sukhothai era and Sangkhalok items retrieved form sunken vessels in the Gulf of Thailand. lt is open daily except Monday, Tuesdays and public holidays, from 8.30 a.m. - 4.00 p.m. Entry fee is 30 baht per person. For more information Tel; (055) 641571

Si Satchanalai District

Si Satchanalai Historical Park is located on the bank of the Yom River at Tambon Muang Kao, Amphoe Si Satchanalai. The ancient town, formerly called ''Muang Chaliang,'' was named ''Si Satchanalai'' during the reign of Phra Ruang when a new administrative centre was established to replace Chaliang. Ruins of 134 monuments have been discovered within the park:

Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat also called Wat Phra Borommathat Muang Chaliang or Wat Phra Prang, is situated 3 kilometres to the south of ancient Si Satchanalai's wall. An immense laterite Prang on a square base marks the central part of the temple. A steep staircase in front of the huge Prang leads to a room where a reliquary is enshrined.

Wat Khao Suwan Khiri is also a hilltop temple situated 200 metres away from Phranom Phloeng Hill. A huge-bell shaped Chedi on a 5-tiered base is the centre of the temple. Ruins of a Wihan and Chedi, a fragment of huge stucco figures lie scattered on the ground. The similarity between some figures here and those at Wat Chang Lom in the old town of Sukhothai leads to a belief that it was King Ramkhamhaeng the great of Sukhothai Kingdom who had this temple constructed.

Wat Chang Lom is an important monument within the old town of Si Satchanalai. A huge bell-shaped Chedi supported by 39 elephants, with 4 of them at 4 cardinal points elaborately decorated, marks the centre of the temple. Above the Chedi's base, there are niches enshrining images of the Buddha subduing Mara.

Wat Chedi Chet Thaeo is one of the most beautiful temples in Sukhothai Province. Chedis of the different artistic styles and influence were built within the area of this temple. Mural paintings, seriously damaged, are still to be seen in some Chedi.

Wat Suan Kaeo Utthayan Yai is located near What Chedi Chet Thaeo with only a dirt road in between. A large image hall lies in remains within this temple. The monastery is also called Wat Kao Hong or the 9 roomed temple.

Wat Nang Phaya is famous for its delicate stucco reliefs on the remains of the northwestern wall of the 7 roomed "Wihan" or "image hall". The pillars of this Wihan are decorated within with unglazed ceramic designs. The central laterite Chedi is surrounded by lampposts and accessible by a set of narrow stairs.

Wat Suan Kaeo Utthayan Noi is the only temple within the old town of Si Satchanalai with a brick building in front. The ruins of this temple consist of a whole laterite image hall with a laterite roof.

Si Satchanalai Historical Park is open daily between 8.30 a.m. - 4.30 p.m.

Celadon Kiln Site Study and Conservation Center is located at Ban Ko Noi, some 4 kilometres to the north of Si Satchanalai. More than 500 kilns have been excavated up to now. Numerous celadon wares in perfect condition as well as potsherds have been discovered. The kiln is oval in shape with a curved roof and is 7-8 metres wide.

The centre consists of 2 buildings situated on the kiln site area with 2 kilns Nos. 42 and 61 exhibited on site. There are also exhibitions on artifacts and on the evolution of ancient ceramic wares.

Si Satchanalai National Park has a total area of 213 square kilometres. It covers areas in Amphoe Si Satchanalai and Amphoe Thung Saliam of Sukhothai Province. It was proclaimed a National park on 8 May, 1981.

The Park's geography is mainly high, undulating mountains by a tropical jungle. Interesting tourist sport in the park include Tat Dao and Tat Duan Waterfalls, about 3 kilometres and 500 metres from the park headquarters, respectively. The park also has a hot spring, Khangkhao Cave, and Thara Wasan Cave.

Si Satchanalai National Park can be reached by car. From Amphoe Si Satchanalai, take the Si Satchanalai-Ban Kaeng-Huai Yuak route for 41 kilometres. Then 5 kilometres before the intersection to Ban Yuak, there is a right-hand road which you take for another 2 kilometres to the park headquarters.

Si Satchanalai Traditional Gold is not only the ordinary style of goldencraft commonly being sold and purchased, but is the golden ornaments being renewable hand making by local hand weaving.The goldsmith usually copies the traditional designs found from ruins and remains in the area of Si Satchanalai Historical Park.

The local people of Hat Sieo village in Si Satchanalai who have conserved long lasting typical cloth made with colourful and different designs, have produced the various styles of cloth for sale.

Sukhothai used to export enormous numbers of its pottery products in old time. The sustaining production is still ready to serve the tourists who want both to purchase and to have snapshots on the kilns.


FESTIVALS:

Si Satchanalai Ordination Celebration or "Buat Chang" is a local event held annually during 7-8 April at Ban Hat Sieo, Amphoe Si Satchanalai. It features a spectacular procession of ordination candidates in colourful costumes on the backs of some 20-30 decorated elephants.

Loi Krathong and Candle Festival is held annually on the full moon night of the 12th lunar month at Sukhothai Historical Park. Activities during the festival include krathong floating,a fireworks display,and local games and performances amid the glamorous atmosphere of Sukhothai Historical Park.


RELATED LINKS: Learn about the Thailand that most tourists don't get to visit at ThailandLife.com. Coming to Thailand on holiday or to work? Learn some Thai today for free at LearningThai.com and ThaiPhrasebook.com. A list of quality web sites about Thailand can be found at SrinaiWeb.com.

COPYRIGHT: Information on this page is used with permission from the Tourist Authority of Thailand. Additional information from brochures produced locally and notes made by Nattawud Daoruang and Richard Barrow. All photographs on this web site are the property of Nattawud Daoruang.