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 Thailand
Guidebook > Provinces > Northern
Thailand > Nan
A
quiet and tranquil province, Nan nestles in a valley in Northern Thailand.
About 668 kilometres from Bangkok, it covers an area of 11,472 square
kilometres and is made up of the following districts: Muang, Wiang Sa,
Na Noi, Pua, Chiang Klang, Tha Wang Pha, Thung Chang, Mae Charim, Ban
Luang, Na Mun, Santisuk, Bo Klua, Chaleom Phra Kiat, Song Kwae, and
Phu Phiang.
The people of Nan
descend from the Lan Changs (Laotians). Their forebears moved to settle
around present day Pua district which is rich in rock salt deposits,
about 700 years ago at the time when Sukhothai was becoming the kingdom
of the Thais. They subsequently moved south to the fertile Nan River
basin which is much more extensive. Nan's history is deeply involved
with its neighbours, in particular Sukhothai which played an important
role in both political and religious terms before Nan became a part
of Lanna, Burma and Thailand in that order. Today Nan is still the home
of numerous Thai Lu and other hill tribes who retain highly interesting
customs and traditions.
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Wat Phra That Chae Haeng, about 2 kilometres from
town on Highway No. 1168, is an ancient religious site of
the province. Once the centre of the old town, it was moved
to its present location in about 1368. It features a 55
metre-high golden Chedi containing a holy Relic from Sukhothai.
Over the Wihan's door frames and on parts of the roofs are
plaster designs in the shape of Naga, the great serpent,
which represent the artistic best in local architecture.
The building of the Nan National Museum was actually
constructed in 1903 and once the residence of a ruler of
Nan. It displays exhibitions concerning the town's history
and major structures, evolution of arts in different ages,
and numerous ancient objects, the most eminent of which
is the black ivory. lt also provides anthropological information
on the northern indigenous people including the several
minorities residing in Nan. The museum is open Wednesday-Sunday
from nine in the morning until four o'clock in the afternoon.
A uniquely designed and the most interesting temple in
Nan is Wat Phumin which has a 4-portico, single building
housing both the Ubosot and Wihan. Four Buddha statues with
their backs against one another are installed in the main
hall facing the four directions. The doors are delicately
carved in splendid designs by Lanna craftsmen.
Wat Phumim underwent a major restoration in 1867 since
it was built some 27 years ago. It is believed that the
wall murals were commissioned during this time. The wall
paintings, in Thai Lu style are considered highly valuable
and depict legends concerning the Lord Buddha as well as
local legends and the local way of life, which include native
attires, weaving and commerce with foreign countries.
Wat Phaya Wat is located just before reaching the
town on Highway No. 101. An ancient religious site, it has
rectangular Chedi bases on which Buddha statues are placed
around the Chedi structure. Combined artistic influences
of Lanna, Lan Chang and native Nan can be detected.
Opposite the Nan National Museum is Wat Chang Kham Woravihan.
Its main features are the sculpted upper halves of elephants
adorning around the Chedi, a Sukhothai influence. Here have
been found stones with ancient Thai scripts relating to
the alliance between the kings of Nan and Sukhothai when
Nan was still and independent state. An ancient golden Buddha
is enshrined in the Wihan.
Wat Suan Tan, built in 1230, features an old, beautifully-shaped
chedi and houses a huge bronze Buddha statue, Phra Chae
Thong Thip cast by a king of Chiang Mai in 1450. |
Pha
Chu or Pha Cheot Chu, is a cliff located within the
Si Nan National Park which covers extensive forested
and mountainous areas. The cliff can be reached by taking
the Nan-Wiang Sa-Na Noi route for 135 kilometres, then turning
into highway no. 1083 and on for another 22 kilometres.
The cliff-top offers an excellent viewing point to enjoy
a panoramic vista of the mountains. A national flag pole
has a lanyard running all the way down to the foot of the
hill, the longest in the country. There are camping areas
for visitors in the park.
Hom Chom
is a natural geological occurrence located about 10 kilometres
from Na Noi district on highway no. 1083. The site is characterised
by a large earthen mould eroded by the elements through
the ages, leaving only hard eastern columns, whose exotic
shapes and forms can be interpreted as differently as the
imagination goes.
The Thai Lu
Village-Ban Nong Bua is about 40 kilometres to the north
of the town on highway no.1080, with an additional 3 kilometres
after the left turn into the village in the Wang Pha district.
The Thai Lu people living at Ban Nong Bua are noted for
producing the traditional tribal fabric, an art handed down
from generation to generation. It has also been improved
in the designs but still retaining the original patterns.
The native woven materials have now become a highly popular
buy among tourists.
Wat Nong Bua
in Nong Bua village of Tha Wang Pha district was built by
Thai Lu craftsmen who had earlier migrated from southern
China. Apart from the Wihan which is adorned with elaborate
carvings, there are also wall murals painted by Thai Lu
artists some one hundred years ago. Their artistic value
and degree of perfection equal those at Wat Phumin.
To the north
of Nan along highway No. 1080 in Nong Bua district and with
a further distance of 25 kilometers on the route to Bo Klua
district lies the Doi Phu Kha National Park. The
terrain is mainly forested lands on limestone mountain ranges,
the source of several streams which merge into the Nan River.
The elevation is about 1,900 metres above sea level. Here
are found several rare and near-extinct flora, particularly
the Chomphu Phu Kha [bretschneidera ninesis hemsl.], whose
pink flowers are in full bloom during February. In the morning,
a sea of mist can be seen drifting across the valley. There
are also several scenic waterfalls and the Wa brook
waiting for tourists who like to shoot the many rapids.
Permits to camp can be applied for. Alternatively, tourists
may choose to utilize the accommodation services in the
park.
Ban Pak Naj,
about 22 kilometres along the road winding over the shoulder
of the mountain some 96 kilometres from the provincial town,
is a fishing village on the bank of the freshwater lake
above the Sirikit Dam in Uttaradit. Local rafts are turned
into restaurants and accommodations for visitors who prefer
vacationing amid peaceful surrounding. The most famous food
is the many kinds of freshwater fish caught in the lake. |

The Traditional
Boat Race is held in October or November each year when the
Nan River flows swiftly past the province. It is incorporated
with the celebrations of the Black lvory and the local Kathin
ceremony. Boats are dugouts made from large logs and are beautifully
decorated. Manned by well trained oarsmen, the racing boats are
lustily cheered on by spectators lining both banks of the river.

The Woven Materials
of Nan are distinctively different in terms of designs and
production methods from other localities. The most famous pattern
is the Lai Nam Lai which resembles waves or stairs. Other
designs also reflect the local artistic and creative skills. The
materials are used for making dresses, colourful satchels and
Tung, a type of pennant used in religious rites. Such products
are widely available in town or production centres in rural villages
particularly at Ban Nong Bua in Tha Wang Pha district.
Nan is also noted for
making musical instruments which include the Saloh, a violin-like
instrument, and the Sung, similar to a guitar. They are
used in bands which can still be heard in certain restaurants
in town where they can be bought.
In addition, silverware,
wood carving and hilltribe handicraft are quite popular with tourists.
The leading agricultural produce is the Som Si Thong (golden
oranges) which are of the same species as oranges of the Centre
Plain. Because of climatic differences, the local version is golden-skinned
and more aromatic. They are in season in December. |
COPYRIGHT:
Information on this page is used with permission from the Tourist Authority
of Thailand. Additional information from brochures produced locally
and notes made by Nattawud Daoruang and Richard Barrow. All photographs
on this web site are the property of Nattawud Daoruang.

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